An exclusive group of champagne lovers gathered at a very special party celebrating the Oriental Hotel's 130th anniversary and the visit of Madame Cécile Bonnefond, the first female president of the legendary champagne house Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin since La Grande Dame de la Champagne, "Madame Clicquot", or Barbe-Nicole Ponsardin, passed away in 1866.

"Back in 1805, it was a no-no thing for a woman in France to run a business. They were expected to stay home and raise their daughters. But Madame Clicquot did otherwise, by establishing one of the best-known champagne houses in the world today," says Madame Bonnefond, who paid a rare visit to Thailand as the guest of honour for the event held at Le Normandie restaurant.

Le Normandie's Carlos Gaudencio prepared special dishes to match the array of Veuve Clicquot drinks, some of which are still not available in Thailand. The oven-baked Brittany lobster with fennel was served with Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin Brut Rosé, while roast loin of veal with truffle sauce was accompanied with Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin La Grande Dame 1996, and the red fruit variation went very well with the sweet Rich Reserve 1998.

As the first female president since the day of Le Grande Dame herself, Madame Bonnefond says her main job is to manage the "paradox" between keeping the old traditions of this 234-year-old vineyard and making sure the company is modern and "hip and hop".

"We also promote the French arts of living or 'art de vivre'," says Bonnefond, who flew directly from Reims in the French Champagne region for the party.

Throughout the five years of her management, Bonnefond has brought back some feminine touches to the house. Recognisable by its signature orange label, Veuve Clicquot champagnes are loved by many for their style, but also for their strong, structured tastes.

Bonnefond recalls the days when Madame Clicquot managed her empire with meticulous care and attention.

"She was known for being obsessed with excellence. She was a very creative and international woman," says Bonnefond. "She would send her men out to sell her wines in countries like Russia, Germany, Switzerland and the US, and she took good care of her people. She would write to them regularly to make sure everything was okay."

The first case of Veuve Clicquot champagne was sent to Thailand in 1905 through a German agent. While the house has its main markets in the US, England and Italy, some Asian countries such as Hong Kong, Japan and Singapore are accounting for more orders each year.

After spending two days in Bangkok, Bonnefond spent a week in Tokyo, before flying back to France, where this year's harvest has begun.

"It is important to be there during the harvest," says Bonnefond, who describes herself as a very "hands-on" president. "We have a big vineyard and this year we are hiring about 1,500 harvesters. We also have winegrowers who we want to maintain a relationship with, so it is important for me to be there."

Bonnefond, who was not born in champagne country, says it took two harvests for her to get to know the basics of champagne making.

But having worked in numerous food industries, she says she has always been involved in processes that start in the fields and finish at the table.

As the first female president of the house for 140 years, Bonnefond has created a special picnic case - with a bottle of Veuve Clicquot Yellow Label and two flutes - set in the house's signature orange. The case is available for Bt4,900 from Central Chidlom and can be used as a stylish accessory after you've enjoyed the drink.

"Our champagne reflects lots of female characteristics. It is very soft and delicate yet strong and powerful, thanks to the secret recipe of Madame Clicquot herself," says Bonnefond.

Today Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin plays a role in supporting working women worldwide with its annual Business Women Award, which began in 1972.

Bonnefond says this year the company plans to support women from Asia, Africa and South America who have done significant things to promote the economies of their countries.

Just another way in which the famous champagne maker enhances its already renowned international reputation.

Sirin P Wongpanit

The Nation