As a travel writer, Sulak Sivaraksa remains a social activist. He offers the usual impressions of a country, and then assesses it socially and politically.

Here he recounts a week in Bhutan in September 1987 and augments his experiences with expressions of hope that it can open up to modern influences while preserving its Buddhist values.

At best, the book gives him the chance to expound on his faith in Buddhism as a guiding force in human development.

Sulak made the trip - the beginning of an involvement with the Himalayan kingdom that has lasted to this day - at the invitation of a member of its royal family. He was to discuss Buddhism with monks and young people there.

He has since become a mainstay in the international seminars that Bhutan holds on its proposed Gross National Happiness (GNH) index. The second was in Bangkok two years ago; the third, next year, is also in Thailand.

It's been almost two decades since Sulak's account was first published in Matichon newspaper, but this third edition is still relevant in terms of travelling tips and socio-economic perspective.    

Bhutan, he writes, is the last Buddhist country that could still emerge with its Buddhist values intact, a noble example not just to Asia but the world.

Now confronting the crossroads that Thailand encountered a century ago, Bhutan, he says, should avoid the mistakes made by Siam, Japan and South Korea in embracing modern times.

Except for its cover photo of the charming Bhutanese crown prince, Sulak's travelogue has little in common with other recent titles that cash in on Jigme's current popularity in Thailand.

It offers a rare glimpse into Bhutan's recent past, on a voyage into the country's geographical and spiritual landscape. Both positive and negative aspects are presented in an honest journey around the mountainous country and into bordering Tibet and India.

Sulak's unmatched knowledge of Buddhism's dual Mahayana and Theravada traditions makes the book an enriching read even if Bhutan is not your next sightseeing destination.

Few Thais, in fact, would be able to envision the majestic Himalayas against a backdrop of Buddhist cosmology, as did Sulak when his plane approached the lofty homes of the Hindu gods, like Sumeru and Everest, the abode of Indra.

Bhutan today maintains protective policies on tourism, foreign investment and the use of resources. Sulak speaks of these as he visits towns like Paro, Thimpu, Punakha and Wangdi, his information on each still largely up to date.

Of special interest is his trek by land from Bhutan to India to catch his homeward-bound plane - the airport in Paro was beset by bad weather. The route he took is still devoid of foreigners, and in those days permission to use it could take six months to be issued.

The small border towns - Bhutan's Phunt Soling, India's Jaigoun and Silliguri - provided perfect settings for the knowledgeable, British-educated Sulak to reflect on colonialism's effects on the map as well as on the locals' mannerisms and attire, and the ethnic mix of the frontier.

Sulak embraces Tibetan Buddhism and strongly supports the Dalai Lama. He is one of the few Thais who can speak with clarity on Buddhism as practised in Tibet and Bhutan, and on the contradictory nature of relations between those countries.

For centuries, Bhutan has respected Tibet's culture - and refused to trust its leaders. Sulak likens their guarded relationship to that of Thailand and Burma, soured by history's wars. In both cases, the former enemies decline to learn from one another.

Sulak attributes Bhutan's success in maintaining its independence to two factors: remoteness and Buddhist non-aggression.

Much as he praises Bhutan for its development plans, though, he has no illusions and romanticises nothing. He remains sceptical about the monarchy and the monastery's ability to overcome their limitations and help the country prosper.

He also raises doubts how the country would manage its proffered development budget without running into debt.

Unable to include more information about the GNH in the book, Sulak invites readers to visit www.bhutanstudies.org.bt and www.ait.ac.th/gnh2004.

By Sukanya Hantrakul