Designer Dumplings

A Dutch chef puts the 'wow' factor into the common stuffed bun
He made the world's biggest heart-shaped chocolate and designed the first stand-up cutlery. Now Bangkok-based Dutch chef Helfred van Malkenhorst has come up with a new innovation, "XalaWow" - a new take on the Chinese stuffed bun known as salapao. A resident of Thailand for the past 11 years, Malkenhorst is known as much for his weird hairstyle - a shorn head and a topknot - as for his funky food creations. The new XalaWow is likely to give his reputation a further boost. "The salapao is known all over the world. But it has been the same for ages. So I think it is time to rediscover it," he says. "Besides, if you launch something that is already well received by people, you stand a good chance of being successful. But if you introduce something that's totally different, it's going to be difficult to market and it will cost a small fortune." While normal salapaos are made of white-bread dough, Malkenhorst's XalaWow use various kinds of naturally flavoured breads. The shapes are also different. "After the breads are steamed, I cut the top open and add a special creamy sauce. After that, I decorate it with meat or fish plus vegetables and herbs. They look cute and taste great," says the beaming chef. He adds that his XalaWow are also value for money as the stuffing is about double that of the standard salapao. First launched on July 6 at XalaWow's first outlet in Carrefour, Rama IV branch, Malkenhorst intends to fine-tune his dumplings before opening counters at the more upscale Siam Paragon and Central Chidlom before the end of the year. Perfect as single purchases or in boxes to share with friends, Malkenhorst believes both Thai and European customers will like his XalaWows. "People get bored with deep-fried munchies at parties. XalaWows offer an alternative. They are exciting, cute, tasty and they're healthy." The already-made XalaWow simply need to be kept in be fridge and can be either popped in the microwave or steamed shortly before serving. He's also planning to tap into the night entertainment market as most venues have limited kitchen facilities. And he's taking his new buns to Europe. The first European outlet, to be opened in October with the help of his friend Peter Jan Rens, a multimedia expert from Holland, will be in a prime location in Amsterdam. Raised in a family of bakers, Malkenhorst was groomed to be a chef. After working in a five-star hotel in Holland, he decided it was definitely what he was looking for. "I love to work, but I must have freedom to create new things. I became fed up with a controlled working environment, particularly in a five-star hotel, where chefs usually have a dictatorship mentality," he explains, adding that many well-educated chefs tend to be closed to trying new things. "I don't have any limits. If it tastes good, then it is great." His frustration with the working environment in Holland brought him to Thailand and he's worked in just about every sector of the hospitality business, from guesthouse, restaurant and bar to hotels. He's also acted as a culinary consultant in the United Nations offices in Bangkok. "I love Thailand so much. Thai people are very nice to work with. They don't judge you immediately, but give you respect." In between developing dumplings, Malkenhorst works as a freelance chef creating signature dishes and catering for private functions and meetings. He doesn't own any cookery books - only glossaries of ingredients - relying instead on love and music for culinary inspiration. After finessing the XalaWow, he says he'll be developing more dishes but declines to go into details. "I love the challenge of creating, and surprising people, with my food." Sopaporn Kurz The Nation ------------------------------- Saucy stuffings Tom Jummy A tamarind-flavoured bun in boat shape, stuffed with tom yam gung sauce, topped with prawn, pumpkin, celery, parsley, red chilli and coriander leaf.
Pork Inn A black and white sesame bun in a ballpoint shape, stuffed with green curry sauce and topped with fried dry pork strips, bean sprouts, spring onion and tomato.
Tune A A squid ink with chicken broth bun, freestyle shape, stuffed with tuna sauce, topped with squid rings, green asparagus, small Japanese mushrooms and basil.
Tomcorn Chic A corn and green pepper bun in boat shape, stuffed with tomato sauce and topped with fried Cajun chicken, baby corn, tomato, and parsley.
The buns are available at Xalawow outlet in Carrefour Rama IV and cost Bt25 apiece.
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