More than 20,000 Thai and foreign tourists flocked to the fifth edition of the Hua Hin jazz festival earlier this month. But while the spaces around the stages between the Sofitel and Hilton were filled with happy fans, problems with accommodation left many visitors frowning.

"We booked a room at the Hilton a month ago but they could only put us up for one night," complained one lady who had come with her husband and young daughter.

"We took our vacation to coincide with the jazz festival."

They were not the only ones who found themselves with nowhere to stay, and like many others were forced to head to nearby Cha-Am in search of accommodation.

With two zones and an alley set aside for food stalls and souvenirs booths, the beach area offered more space for walking and sitting than in previous years and most festival goers appreciated the addition of a smoking corner.

Innovative touches included a sand bank embossed with the Heineken name, a sculpture of saxophones emblazoned with lights, signposts, and a post office run by the beer makers.

"A gimmick for the tourists," said Sermkhun Kunawong, CEO of CM Organiser.

Perhaps, but the tourists appreciated it, posing for photographs and snapping up postcards for family and friends. The souvenir shop also did a roaring trade with beach chairs packed with happy shoppers.

Another first this year was the charity zone where punters could pay Bt500 for unlimited Heineken beer and a seat with a great view.

Packed on all three nights, the crowd at was full capacity on Saturday with jazz fans swaying to the sounds. This year's foreign artists, hailing mainly from Scandinavia, offered a brand of jazz new to the Thais and to many of the foreigners. Mikkel Nordso drew cheers from a group of Bulgarian visitors for a number with a distinctively Eastern European overtime, while Ibrahim Electric brought the house down with their stunning performance.

Some Thais however were disappointed, voicing a preference for American jazz of the kind played by John Petrucci, a guest at last year's festival.

Renowned saxophonist Koh Mr Saxman gave an impromptu performance before autographing copies of his new CD "The Jazz Brothers" at his booth, while ska favourites T-Bone had the audience on its feet dancing to a raucous rhythm.

And with the rain holding off, the performances were able to run through till the witching hour on all three nights, though the festival suffered from its perennial dampener- a sulky sound system.

Kitchana Lersakvanitchakul

The Nation