Australian fashion fans had a chance to catch the latest collections of three leading Thai designers at the end of April with Playhound, Tube Gallery and Stetsis strutting their stuff on the catwalks of the Mercedes Australian Fashion Week (MAFW) for the first time.

Although Bangkok Fashion City, a high-profile project of the Thai government, is not yet an all-out crowd puller, Pramote Witthayasuk, director-general of the Department of Industrial Promotion and director of the Fashion City project headquarters, is pleased with Thailand's entry into the Australian market.

He need only look at New Zealand, currently regarded as one of the hottest centres of fashion in the region. The country has been participating in the MAFW since 1997 and this year four of its top designers, including Zambesi and World, were at the event wowing buyers and press with their spring-summer collections.

A number of fellow Asian designers, many of them already stars on the Australian market, also answered present at roll call.

Kyoto-born Akira Isogawa moved to Australia in 1986 and had his first show at the inaugural MAFW back in 1996.

His Japanese-inspired designs and distressed fabrics have thrilled audiences from Sydney to Paris and always receive attention for their cutting-edge style.

High Tea with Mrs Woo was created by the Foong sisters who emigrated from Malaysia to Australia in 1988. The three women launched their brand  in 2004. As yet it is only available Down Under.

There's no shortage of other Asian designers who want to be the next big thing in Australian fashion. They include Malaysian designer Syaiful Baharim who recently walked off with the Mercedes-Benz Asia Fashion Award 2006 in Singapore, Fang, a brand created by fellow Malaysian Ng Ee Fang and Dorian Ho, a rising star from Hong Kong.

And now there are the Thais. On April 28, Playhound and Tube Gallery joined Ed and Bek, a quirky boutique label of Australia origin in the Women's and Men's Ready-to-Wear group show.

Both brands are already doing well in Thailand. Playhound is the sister brand of Greyhound, which has more than 20 years experience in the market. Meanwhile Tube Gallery has won over Thai fashion critics' hearts at several fashion weeks.

Playhound designer Jitsing Somboon offered a creative collection, but not an overly impressive show with only a few outfits being presented on the catwalk. The show was too short to draw serious attention from viewers, although it did emphasise Jitsing's love for detail and variety of techniques, while stressing simplicity.

After the show, the designer was modest about Playhound's impact at the MAFW.

"I think the market here pays more attention to fashion with a sporty look, which is why we decided to bring Playhound here rather than the higher-end Grey. I feel the show appealed to people who are interested in strong creativity and technique in a contemporary design".

Greyhound's marketing director Kazuyuki Nakajima feels Australasia is a promising market. Playhound won't be making a hard sell this year, but paving the way for the potential. First, says Nakajima, the brand needs to find the right stockist in Australia.

Since its launch five years ago, Tube Gallery has gained a lot of experience on the catwalks at home as well as in Malaysia and Singapore. Designers Saxit Pisalasupongs and Phisit Jongnarangsin travelled to Sydney with the Maharanee collection. The distinctive winter outfits with splashes of red and blue on a black background were first shown at Bangkok Fashion Week in March.

"We offer experimental clothes with a lot of crafting and details, which I think is lacking in this market," says Saxit.

Sretsis, a three-year-old label from Bangkok, is already doing well in the US and was all set to take Australia by storm when it joined the women's ready-to-wear on April 29 alongside Melbourne's Tiffany Treloar, Christine Tang's label Story by Tang from Western Australia, young Sydney designer Hannah McNichol and High Tea with Mrs Woo from Newcastle.

Pim Sukhahuta presented her new Blue Lagoon collection, first shown at Elle fashion Week in Bangkok, catching the attention of the audience with her girlish style and handcrafted detail.

"It's inspired by the concept of a happy accident, which turns out to be a real delight. We presented jump suits and mini dresses in delicate fabrics with quirky prints of daisies, beetles and flying birds."

The feedback from buyers was impressive and Pim received a lot of exposure in the fashion media.

"For a new designer to establish themselves here they must show continuity in their work. One collection is not enough. I showed seven collections in Thailand and people started appreciate the development of ideas, then they started to pay attention. History will only repeat itself if we persist in this market," says Pim.

She's convinced that the market has room for Asian designers and Sretsis already has its own fashion agency - Paul Maloney - and stockists in Australia.

Many up-and-coming Asian designers shone at MAFW, confirms Simon Lock, managing director of the organisers, IMG Fashion Asia Pacific. He admits to being pleasantly surprised at the shows of the Thai designers and how ready they are to push for innovation.

"It is marvellous to see Thai designers at MAFW this year. Their works outstrip the traditional image of Thai silk with much more inspirational styles of fashion."

Vipasai Niyamabha

The Nation