Few people could have been happier with the lifting of Thailand's ban on US beef than Richard Taffs and Robert Wittebrood. They are attached to the New York Steakhouse at the JW Marriott Bangkok.

"People kept asking when US beef was coming back," says Wittebrood, the restaurant's manager. Rumours were forever swirling that imports would resume, but he couldn't tell customers when.

The Thai government banned imports of US beef in December 2003 following concerns about mad cow disease. Thailand lifted the ban on boneless beef on February 15, following inspection of US meat-processing plants.

Beef is back on the menu at the New York Steakhouse, at the Madison in the Four Seasons Bangkok and at Hamilton's in Dusit Thani Bangkok. Supermarkets Market Place and Tops have also put US beef back on their shelves.

Beef from Australia, Argentina and New Zealand is a fine alternative, but it doesn't compare with "what's considered the world's best beef among international chefs and hoteliers", says Jitrinee Vitchudhakorn, Central Food Retail's vice president of perishable goods.

Last year, Central Food Retail imported 3.5 tonnes of beef from Australia, Argentina and New Zealand, up from one tonne in 2004, according to Jitrinee.

Jitrinee expects the sale of the US beef alone to reach between two and four tonnes this year. "A lot of restaurants and hotels should start launching US beef promotions," she says.

The New York Steakhouse, for one, heralded US beef's return with a promotion as soon as the ban was lifted. Fans have been packing the restaurant since, Wittebrood says, with a full house almost every evening, even on the eve of the general election when wine sales were banned.

During the 30-month prohibition, the New York Steakhouse served kobe, wagyu, Argentine and Australian beef.

"Our customers were pleased [with the substitutions] but they needed something authentic," says Wittebrood, noting that diners come to the steakhouse for its authentic New York atmosphere - big columns, large tables and chairs, big plates and its New York-cut steaks.

However, not everyone is in a hurry to start serving US beef again.

"I doubt if the quality is back to the normal standard," says Vichit Mukura, executive chef at the Oriental Bangkok. The Oriental has been serving kobe beef from Australia and France since the ban was imposed on US beef.

The sanction affected beef consumption for just a few months, Vichit says. Customers quickly accepted kobe beef. "Now we don't hear complaints anymore."

Most customers don't realise the difference between US beef and beef from other countries if the cooking techniques are nearly identical, he says.

The Blue Elephant Cooking School wasn't concerned with the two-year ban because it sources its beef locally for its Thai dishes.

However, for steak kobe beef is best because of its softer texture, says Chumpol Jangprai, assistant corporate chef for Blue Elephant Cooking School. "Kobe beef contains more fat and is easier to chew."

Taffs, the executive chef at the JW Marriott, recommends that kobe beef be cooked medium-rare to maintain its juicy texture.

However, he says nothing compares with US beef, adding that kobe contains a little too much fat for a flavourful, nicely textured steak.

Sirinya Wattanasukchai

The Nation