With a list of clients that includes Cher, Madonna and Britney Spears, you'd have thought that fashion designer Anna Sui would do her shopping at Barney's or Saks Fifth Avenue.

But, in fact, she prefers flea markets and includes a trip to one wherever she goes.

During her four-day swing through Bangkok last week - her first visit to Thailand - she dedicated part of her second day to browsing through the Chatuchak Weekend Market.

"I go to flea markets every weekend if I can," says Sui, who lives in New York City where bazaars are held every weekend in empty lots and at street fairs.

"We have a lot of great vintage stores," Sui says, noting she doesn't confine her sprees to just flea markets. "I like shopping, in general, so I can simply go to a drugstore and shop."

Like many American-born Chinese, Sui says the only thing ethnic about her family was that they ate Chinese food. These days, however, the Detroit, Michigan, native is exploring her roots through Chinese movies, friends and travels.

Dressed in a black-and-white lacy dress for the meet-and-greet session at Siam Paragon, Sui looks refreshingly normal. There's no Greenwich Village hippiness about her. She's gracious and polite, with a smile in her eyes and on her lips.

Sui, who's best known in Thailand for the black-and-purple retro-chic packaging of her cosmetics, talked to The Nation about her designs and why her products make people smile.

What are you working on now?

We're doing some Hello Kitty products with Japan to celebrate the 30th anniversary of Hello Kitty.

You have boutiques, shoes and cosmetics. What's next?

I'll be releasing a lingerie collection by the end of the year in the US, but I can't tell you more than that.

You liked playing dress-up when you were a little girl. Who was the biggest star you wanted to dress back then?

Cher. When I opened my store in Los Angeles, she came to the opening party. That was exciting. I just loved her style. She had that long black hair and long nails, so skinny with great curls. When I met her for the first time, she acted like we had always known each other. She said, "Anna, so any cute guys here?"

What was your most recent exciting discovery?

I have the best job in the world because everything I'm interested in, everything I'm obsessing about, I can use in my work.

When we were in Singapore [before flying to Bangkok], we came across this woman wearing a kebaya and I just fell in love with it. I had seen it before, but I never knew the story behind it. So, the next day, I went to the Asia Civilisation Museum to find out more. I've discovered that it's a mix of Chinese and Malaccan culture. So now I'm very interested in that.

What are you obsessing about now?

I'm reading "Charles the Second" about the Restoration. There's this great movie coming out starring Johnny Depp called "Libertine". He looks gorgeous in it... he's got these great curls. I want to know more about that period, so I've been reading this book. It's an older book.

Where did you find the book?

I found it in the laundry room in my apartment!

You've mentioned that you love Beijing. What exactly do you love about the city?

I think it's much more Chinese than Shanghai. The first time I visited, I stayed in this beautiful historic compound. The hotel only had six rooms. It was very much like [Zhang Yimou's movie] "Raise the Red Lantern". So for the past 10 years, whenever I go to China, I try to see parts of cities that are still like that.

There was a great flea market in Beijing, too.

You can still get glimpses of the old China, so now I want to travel again so that I can see more of that.

Your first business outside the US was in Japan. Why do you think the Japanese love your style so much?

I think they're very attracted to the girliness of it. But it's not like a pink girlie, but a purple girlie. So it has a little more edge, rock 'n' roll, even Goth to it.

Are you perceived differently in each country where your products are sold?

Yes and no. As far as the image, I think it's the same everywhere. And that's what makes Anna Sui a success in so many different countries. There are so many things about Anna Sui, the purple and black, the rose, the packaging and the beautiful bottles. It's very girlie, kind of nostalgic but very trendy and a little bit rock 'n' roll. You see that every product has that same combination of feelings.

Bangkok Fashion Week is coming up soon. Have you heard anything about Thai fashion or designers?

Of course. Jim Thompson is like a legend. My brother has been here before and he has brought me some beautiful things from Jim Thompson. I'm very anxious to see one of his shops and his products. I also went to the Suan Lum Night Market and noticed that there were some interesting young designers. I actually bought my nieces some pretty little tops. I was looking at some of the textiles, but I need to understand more about them.

How are you inspired for each collection?

There's a process. I have certain deadlines where I need to give directions to my sub-licenses. So that's how I figure out the colours. I have no more time. I have to tell them what colours I'm going to do.

The next thing is shoes. There's a leather fair in April, so I have to get the materials for the next collection. And I have to choose the colours there, too.

But the fabrics and prints take a very long time to develop. And also if you want any special fabrics woven, it takes a long time.

As I'm working on those, I have to come up with the concept, so I have some boards on my wall. I clip and put pictures up on the wall, which starts giving me ideas about the theme.

Then I start putting fabrics on the wall and it starts making sense. It's really a process. I actually don't know what it is until I know what it is. But it's instinct. This looks nice with this and that.

Is it fair to say your products give a definition of "fun"?

I think that everything I do has a wink to put a smile on people's faces. But, yeah, I'm serious about the quality of the designs and quality of the products.

I'm the ultimate optimist.

Kreangsak Suwanpantakul

The Nation