Published on July 18, 2005

The hot ice you’ll see accessorising outfits this season shimmers like the Northern Lights

Bangkok may be bedecked with big, colourful bead necklaces at the moment, but waiting in the wings for its cue to come onstage is some pretty dazzling crystal jewellery.

This coming season, women who love the natural allure of crystals will be treated to a swath of chilly glamour from Swarovski. The 110-year-old firm based in Wattens, Austria, previewed its autumn and winter 2005-2006 collection at “In the Mood for Ice” last week in Hong Kong.

The Swarovski woman might be envisioned as adventurous. Though dressed neatly and smartly in a plain white or black outfit, her eyes shine with the light bouncing off her fabulous crystal necklace, giving her a mysteriously seductive glow.

It’s hot, but there’s a chill in the air. You’re in a snow scene of polar intensity, a magical setting full of adventure. You’re “in the mood for ice”.

The new collection fills the gap between classic elegance of the Swarovski line and the Daniel Swarovski couture line. It’s more fashionable – and less expensive.

From the frozen Arctic first comes Icicle, a necklace of silver and gold in different shades highlighted by large, “glacier-cut” crystals.

Illuissat is a necklace of similarly cut crystals plus crystal-laden pendants.

There are different rings with big triangular, rectangular or “chestnut-cut” crystal stones, and an evening clutch bag called Image with a patterned crystal mesh.

They’re all the fruits of some liberal creativity, said Rosemarie le Gallais, artistic co-director for Daniel Swarovski.

“We always start with a colour theme, and then comes the shape. My personal approach is always very free. I’m not thinking how technically it might be limiting to work a certain stone into a necklace, for example. I just design and create in a very free way, and the modification comes later – but the first step is to get totally free.

“I’ve never pictured certain women wearing these pieces, European or Asian. I imagine more an attitude – full of imagination, very feminine, a portion of style, confidence and generosity. This is my kind of women, the one who corresponds to Swarovski style.”

Markus Langes-Swarovski of the firm’s executive board said the seductive aspect of the pieces is about being “sexy” like the sun and the moon.

“They create a radiance that helps create a certain kind of ambience. Our crystals play with the light to create the radiance that makes the sun and the moon sexy.”

Rococo is a large frosted necklace created with delicate crystals of varying size that cascade into shimmering stalactites, and there are matching earrings and a bracelet.

The lucky charm Rigolotte protects its wearer in the form of a bracelet and long pendant with little doll figurines in black, blue and white.

Le Gallais’ co-director Darko Mladenovic enthused about a sparking universe bringing light into the home. The light of the Arctic night sky, he said, glimmers on the snow and the symbolic figure of a magnificent polar bear.

Swarovski sculpts in the ice to render that big bear on an iceberg – called Nanuc and Illuliac in the Inuit language – in a limited edition of just 25 pieces.

“We are inspired by nature and different cultures,” said Robert Buchbauer, head of the company’s consumer-goods division.

The Milk set is two vases and a bowl, the first time Swarovski has melded crystal and porcelain with such a soft, snowy surface. And the light and airy Smilla mobile reflects a frosty mood as well.

“It’s the transitional state between snow and water, the ice transparent on the branches of a tree,” said Mladenovic.

“Today we have to remain as liberal and creative – it’s the key to our future,” said Langes-Swarovski.

“We work and worship our material in a joyful way and try to convey that in each product.

“Swarovski doesn’t have any finished goods – even if it looks like a finished handbag, it’s only finished when someone wears this handbag or this piece of jewellery or the bear to express her own personality and soul.”

Kupluthai Pungkanon

The Nation

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